Saturday, July 28, 2012

July 25-27 - Time off in a classy town

We left Hot Sulphur Springs after a breakfast at the gas station of toaster pastries and gas station coffee. The ride was mostly downhill to Kremmling, in which we discovered a coffee shop that caters to the region's many tourists, most of whom are rafting on nearby rivers. While in the shop for a second round of caffeine, the regular pattern of afternoon thundershowers accelerated to deliver the first round of raindrops early. We sat and waited it out.

That afternoon we traveled slowly upward in elevation again, riding more slowly because of the incline. We reached Silverthorne and the Dillon Reservoir by 6pm and watched more threatening clouds gather over the surrounding mountains. The rain didn't fall, and we made it to our hosts' home in Frisco with ease along a separated bicycle path that skirted the lake.

We had met Bob & Dorothy's daughter in Fort Collins while hanging out at the New Belgium brewery, and she had recommended that we give them a call to ask about staying with them when we arrived in Summit County. The parents were obliging, and so we went to their condominium right off of the main street in town to meet them.

Kind and open-hearted recent empty-nesters, the couple welcomed us warmly and showed us to our quarters after the initial explanatory chat that is customary to give all hosts about our trip, where we had been and where we were going to go. They gave us a suite on the second floor of four, including a dedicated bath, enormous bed and armchairs. We felt like royalty, and assumed the roles with gusto. Showers and laundry were the first priority, and then we went out to dinner with our new friends at a restaurant they recommended; we all decided upon the same entree, a piping hot dish of lasagna.

I am often struck at how easily some people will fold strangers into their daily routine, and am inspired to retain the same openness to others in my day-to-day life at home.

The next day, having been told by Bob that we could stay "as long as we liked," we decided to add another night in Frisco to our itinerary and take advantage of the many diversions Summit County offers. The transit system runs free buses between the major population centers, and there is a well-designed system of off-road recreation paths used by bicyclists, joggers, and longboarders. We decided to board the bus to Breckenridge, the acclaimed ski vacation destination, bringing our bicycles along on racks just as we would in Portland.

Bob & Dorothy own a frozen yogurt shop on the main commercial street in Breckenridge, and we dropped in to see what it was like. The building has a history that is logged by the government's register and consists of hand-hewn timbers restored to their original luster. The yogurt operation is self-serve with toppings hand-picked by Bob and sold by weight at the counter, often staffed by young employees happy to have a first job so enjoyable. Adele and I both finished off a bowl each with great enjoyment.

That afternoon we chose to ride the free gondola system that ferries folks between the town in the valley and the ski resort on the mountains. We forgot to factor in the amount of elevation we had gained so quickly, and by the time we reached the ski lodge both of us were feeling the effects. I was mildly ruffled, but this time Adele was the one who couldn't stomach the intense change, and so, after a little deliberation and a search for a bag to vomit into just in case of such an eventuality, we rode the gondola back down into town and ate a little food to strengthen our systems.

The bicycle ride back into Frisco was very relaxed; most of the ride was a clean and easy coast down a gentle grade that barely required any effort at all in the warm afternoon sun.

Adele headed back to the condo to rest up after her bout with altitude, and I hopped one more bus to Copper Mountain to see what the lay of the land would be for our departure route the next day. We would be climbing, but at the moment I would relish a long downhill coast on a similar path, along with about 7 longboarders who had been clued into the free lift up the hill.

On my descent, I ran into Bob, who was out for his afternoon constitutional on a light and speedy bicycle. I turned and rode to the trailhead of Vail Pass with him while we talked about the recreational possibilities of the mountains around us. I thanked him for the hospitality, and offered to reciprocate should he find himself in Portland someday. Bob was appreciative but emphasized that I should pay it forward to the next guests I encountered in need of a place to stay.

Adele and I had dinner at a brewpub that served a four meat pizza, and later added an order of the "9,097 ft. nachos" to our yet empty stomachs. An old friend of Adele's had made the drive west from Denver to reconnect, and we talked late into the night over pints of the brewery's fine products.

Finally, after a night of rest it was time to depart. We climbed towards Copper Mountain and stopped for coffee at the shop we found at the end of the path. A rainshower dotted with soft hail drive us and many other recreational cyclists into the couches and chairs inside the shop while we waited out the deluge. Once clear, we saddled up and rode uphill into the hills toward Fremont Pass on Colorado's highway 91. Lightning flashed around the surrounding peaks and we waited for the bolts to dissipate, but eventually we crested the pass and rode down into Leadville.

This evening we endure more rain while camping in a stand of trees just off the roadway. The tent provides a shelter from the rain and we will eventually get around to cooking some dinner once the patter of droplets oin the roof sounds less threatening. We were fortunate to avoid another lightning storm while in town, and there was a gentle downhill slope almost all the way to our landing point tonight.

We hope to sleep well and feel well-fed.

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